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The Thingamejig is a precision scribing tool invented by an Australian cabinet maker who installs millwork and cabinetry. Instead of marking with the usual pencil it scores the material with sharp carbide blades.
The tool consists of a three-winged head with replaceable carbide cutters screwed onto each. A threaded shaft runs through the center, allowing the head to be raised and lowered in relation to the foot—which bears against the surface being scribed to. Once the setting is dialed in the operator secures the shaft with a lock nut.
The scriber has an ergonomic 3-finger grip, making it comfortable to hold and allowing the operator to apply pressure where and when needed. In use, the blades score easily, breaking through the finish so there’s no need to worry about chipping. The tool works amazingly well on cross-grain veneer—nearly eliminating the fear of tearing out grain while making the cut. I can usually get a successful scribe in one or two strokes, depending on the hardness of the material. Laminate sometimes takes an extra stroke to break through the surface.
The triangular blades can be rotated to provide three fresh edges. I have been using the Thingamejig for about a year and the blades are ready to be replaced. This is not a tool to be tossed around. Like any precision device, it needs a home and should not be carried in your tool pouch. I dropped it once and chipped a blade. The Thingamejig comes in a snap-top plastic bin, which is a good thing to store it in.
The scriber includes a non-marring plastic cover that fits over the shoe and prevents it from damaging finish surfaces. I use it nearly all of the time and recommend keeping some extras around because they themselves are easily damaged. If you use the scale remember to deduct 1/32 inch for the thickness of the cover. I rarely use the scale; I simply find the largest gap to be scribed and adjust the height of the winged blade, than snug the lock nut.
There are pros and cons to scribing with blades instead of pencils. Blades work best on painted and prefinished material, where the finely scribed line is easy to see. By breaking through the finished surface, the blades make it possible to cut to the line with a jigsaw without having to worry that the finish will flake off (I usually touch up with a belt sander anyway). The Thingamejig is not the best choice for scribing unfinished wood because the finely scribed line is hard to see on that material. I use this tool when scribing to straight, smooth, and flowing surfaces – as when fitting countertops, cabinet fillers, and moldings to ceilings, walls, and floors. The Thingamejig is not an all-purpose scriber and can’t be used to scribe around moldings and rough surfaces such as stone. Fortunately, there are plenty of other scribing tools that can do those things.
I liked this “thing” the moment I opened the box. Everything about it says quality: the precise machining, the laser etched scale (metric or imperial) on the shaft, and the triangular carbide blades. With an $80 price tag, this scriber certainly is not for everyone. Some folks will say they can achieve the same result with a $3 compass scriber; they can’t – at least not efficiently. The Thingamejig will pay for itself by increasing the quality of your work and reducing the amount of time it takes to do it. If you are like me—a scribing maniac—then you’re going to love this tool. It can be purchased at many industry suppliers, which for some reason are mostly located in the Eastern half of the U.S.
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There were many challenges in bringing this bar back to life, some of ( as you can see in the below photos) were bringing the old wooden cooler back to life, recreating some old carvings & fixing broken carved panels. Many people don’t realize that the actual bar top is original, although mended and epoxied together in many sections, we felt as though the old top told many stories, so it was our goal to do what we could to save it and make it up to code and useable. We stripped it down to bare wood, filled all the holes with epoxy, sanded, stained & installed a new bar rail to clean up the edge. We gave the bar top a conversion varnish finish. Although it is not the way it was done originally, we felt it would offer the most durability for the bar top itself.
TO SEE MORE PHOTOS OF THE PROJECT, CLICK HERE
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My company installs millwork and trim on commercial projects, some so large we might have to walk ¼ to ½ mile inside the building to reach the place where the work is to occur. And the work might be spread out over a large area, as was the case on a recent project where we trimmed a ¼-mile long corridor in a hospital.
At the beginning of the job I realized we’d have to set up our cut station multiple times or spend a lot of time walking back and forth from wherever it was. I didn’t feel like wasting that kind of time so I built a mobile base for our miter saw stand from a sheet of plywood, some casters, and a handful of fasteners. Including design time, the base took just over two hours to build—time well spent given the countless hours we saved by keeping the cut station close to the work.
The base has five 2-inch rubber casters, two at each end and one in the middle. The back edge is stiffened by a 6-inch vertical rip of plywood. The center wheel is at the non-stiffened edge so the base can float (flex) over humps in concrete floors. Because the casters are small, they offer enough resistance that there’s no need to lock them when using the saw; the stand only moves when I want it to.
The base was made to fit FastCap’s BestFence stand—though really, it could have been designed to carry any commercial or home-made saw stand. To keep the stand in position, each of its four feet lands in a 2-inch rubber pipe cap that is screwed to the base. Between the legs we carry a small ultra-quiet compressor, dust extractor, and the safety cones the hospital requires us to use. The dust extractor is held in a cradle to keep it from rolling around and the trash can swings out on a plywood pivot for quick and easy access. With all of this stuff on the base there is still room to store a tool bag, nail guns, and other small items. We hang our hoses and cords from the BestFence handles. When it’s time to move we simply roll the base to wherever the cut station needs to be.
I’ve built this cart more than once, modifying the design to suit the job at hand. Typically, I unload at the loading dock, put everything on the base, and then roll it to the work area. If there are stairs, I won’t load the cart till I get everything to the top-at which point I’m able to roll it around the facility. The base saves us a lot of time by making it easy to keep our cut station and associated tools close to the work area. We use it in much the same way as we use our mobile tool cart.
BP's WAY 